Day Twenty Four - Lauči to Pärnu (82mi)

The pattering of rain made its way through my ear plugs, I took my eye mask off to look, and it certainly was raining again. If you’re wondering why I am wearing an eye mask and ear plugs it’s because rest is one of the most valuable elements to a trip like this. I don’t want to hear a bird chirp, a frog ribbit, or a Dutch man fart while I’m trying to sleep. It’s also midsummer and it’s light until midnight, then light again at 3am, so an eyeshade is essential.

So again, it was raining. I turned back around and went back to sleep. When I woke up the sun was coming out and the hosts had prepared breakfast for me. What a turn the day had already made! I hit the road and found this strange monument of a flying pirate in a field.

There are just some things one will never understand, but still appreciate nonetheless. That’s part of traveling like this, and what makes it so energizing and fulfilling. Bring it on, flying pirate!

Moments later a field of lavender with a winding ribbon of gravel presented to my left. Damn, what a nice day it was shaping up to be!

The A4 highway was not so exciting, but was helping me make good time with the smooth surface. The sunny skies were drying out my clothes, and laundering my mind with positivity and happiness. When it came time to turn left onto a gravel stretch I almost skipped it but decided not to. There is no racing happening here. This gravel road that turned closer to the sea was an invitation, so I took it.

It was brutally washboarded for 3km, with a lot of car traffic coming fast around corners. I was shocked how many cars there were, and how bumpy the road was. There ended up being a huge parking lot where people were camping and swimming. I stopped for a coffee and looked at the haggard condition of my bike. What an impressive piece of equipment that has carried me more than 1500 miles on some of the roughest roads and dirt trails in Europe. This thing has been beaten to hell with me and all my gear on it. I took a moment to recognize my bike, and appreciate its integrity and strength. The tires are the key player here. They have seen the most abuse. What a beacon of perseverance they are.

After eating some dill chips and sipping a coffee I kept riding down this gravel road. It was lined with people camping and swimming, the scene of a summer holiday. It meandered along and was just so beautiful. This is what I came here for.

There were little farm houses along the way, hugging the sea. One person had an amazing attention to detail with their wood cutting and stacking. I got envious just looking at it and hope to meet these standards with all the wood I have to cut when I get home. This person was next level.

The sea was stunning today. Just perfect.

During the break for lunch my watch battery died, so I had to charge it. Shortly afterwards I was already at the border with Estonia, my fifth country on this trip! I could hardly believe it!

The road surface immediately changed and the forest looked different, likely because of management practices, and I kept pushing north on a 1.5 lane road. It was full of cool little homes with saunas and wood stacked everywhere. When I got back to the highway, I was met by some Austrian cyclists on a 2 week trip. We chatted and I drafted off of them all the way to Pärnu. It was nice to meet them and briefly chat. I was hungry and focused on finding dinner, and riding around town a bit.

You could feel things were different in Estonia. There is a driving confidence compared to Latvia. People are moving faster, and thriving in their independence. This is notably different than Latvia, and likely has a lot to do with their socio-political situation. It was striking how different the language, behavior, and food was just in a single day of riding. It’s absolutely fascinating to me. Pärnu is a nice, photogenic place. Here are a few images from around town this evening. I love the lines of the trees and the spotted light in this first photo.

The sun shines forever in June here, and I caught a bit of the low light before heading to bed for much needed rest. What a fulfilling day.